If you have been anywhere near nail groups lately, you will have seen the conversations about brands reformulating to remove TPO and Hema, some without informing nail techs openly.

Brands are not always legally required to make a public announcement when a formula changes, as long as the ingredient list and safety information are updated correctly and the label states exactly what's in there.

That does not mean it doesn't feel frustrating from a technician’s point of view, and I get the frustrations, because transparency is always appreciated. But instead of getting frustrated, we can use it as a reminder to push forward and, get informed and keep our education up to date. CPD is paramount to keep you up to date with applications, ingredients, and new techniques.

Change is part of this industry, and how we respond to it is what makes us professionals.

With some techs panic buying new brands, at the cost of £1000s overnight, I think we need to pause and ask a very simple question.

Why?

Moving to another TPO and Hema free brand does not automatically make things better. And as much as you want it to be, it is not the magic wand you are looking for.

As TPO is now being removed across the whole industry, we need to see this as regulation and chemistry evolving.

Every manufacturer is working on, and testing many alternatives and trying to find the tpo free formula that works and fits with them and their brand. And right now, there is not a magical replacement that has decades of proof behind it that will make every single product perform just as it did. 

We're still learning and growing, and mistakes will be made, but as an industry, we need to learn and grow from them and not fear the change. 

So yes, formulas will feel different. Some will need technique adjustments. Some may have teething problems. But this is going to be unavoidable.

That is completely normal when chemistry changes.

Hema is a very strong bonding monomer. It sticks incredibly well, which is why it's been used safely in nail products for many years.

Because of that strength, Hema's strength-harnessing formulas can sometimes hide small mistakes. It's very forgiving:

• If prep is not perfect
• If the application is slightly thick/heavy
• If the cure is not quite right

A Hema formula may still hold.

That does not mean the technique used was correct. It actually means the chemistry was forgiving.

Now we are moving towards formulas with less or no Hema. That strong safety net is disappearing and techs are finding themselves with retention and cure issues. 

And that means we need to level up our skills. Educate ourselves, quickly, to keep up with these changes.  

I remember the "Hema" panic very clearly. My inbox was full of nail techs wanting to rebrand overnight, spending money they did not have, suffering major mental health issues from the panic they were feeling.

But remember in all the panic....

Hema is safe when used correctly. With good education and thorough application, it performs beautifully, lasts amazingly, and causes no issues at all.

Many issues blamed on Hema were actually stemming from prep issues, product misuse, or lack of understanding. New techs are taking up courses with little to no information included in them. I firmly believe lack of education is more to blame, not the product itself.

We are seeing a similar panic now with TPO. The lack of understanding around the chemical is causing unwarranted panic.

Before switching brands, ask yourself:

• What makes this new brand better?
• What makes their ingredients different to the others? Why is their product soooo amazing?
• How will they support me as a technician?
• What education do they provide?
• Are their replacement photoinitiators proven?

Because right now, there are only so many TPO alternatives available. None of them are miracle solution yet. They are good, but we need more long-term data to get a real feel, and there will be many more replacements as we go along that will fail or thrive; time will tell. 

So one brand is not magically immune to teething problems. This is down to each individual tech's knowledge, working practices and ability to adapt to the product they are using .

One of the most important skills a nail technician can learn is this.

Work with the product you have first.

Understand its viscosity, Cure time, Application needs, prep and basecoat requirements.

Be prescriptive with your client's nails. Remember, one size does not fit all.

Maybe your client was fine with an old formula, not because it was the holy grail, but because Hema sticks to everything !!. Now, in the cold light of day, their nails might actually need a different approach.

A different base? A primer? A Reinforcing technique or even a totally different product. 

Not every nail needs the same system.

That is where your education comes in.

I have seen people suggesting increasing nail file grit to fix problems.

I do not agree in any way.

Prep is prep. Nail anatomy has not changed.

Instead, look at your whole system.

• Cuticle work
• Removing surface shine correctly and safely
• Correct dehydration of the nail plate
• Base coat choice
• Cure times
• Lamp compatibility

Without that strong Hema bond, technique matters more than ever.

And that is not a bad thing. It makes us better technicians.

Some brands are supporting techs beautifully through reformulation. Some are not. 

Others are leaning heavily on marketing and encouraging panic buying.

However, spending thousands on a rebrand when you do not fully understand why is not good business practice. You are just running away from problems that will follow you until you face them head-on.

Playing devil's advocate here, I have spoken to many techs who have had no issues with new formulas, none at all. But we also have techs that are having issues; we need to take what we can from that. It can't be a bad product altogether, otherwise it would not work for anyone at all. It's a balanced opinion. 

But we also only have each tech’s individual experience to get that info from. We cannot see their prep, lamp, or application, or know their individual skill level. We cannot just accept it "does not work" when the tech next door is having no issues at all. 

So we need to be sensible and take a step back and assess our own work before blaming a product.

Before you rebrand, ask yourself:

• Do I fully understand my current product?
• Am I applying it correctly?
• Have I adjusted my technique for the new formula?
• Does my client actually need a different system altogether?

Again, while Stronger Hema formulas could sometimes carry us, New formulas expect us to carry our technique properly.

And that is how we grow into better, more knowledgeable nail techs.

At Melanie Lewendon Academy, this is what I teach every day. Easy to understand, delivered simply, with real support so you feel confident in your work.

Take a breath. Ask the right questions. Learn your products.

You will be a stronger nail tech for it, i promise! 

If you would like to see what courses i offer, you can find them here.

love Mel x