When I first started out, I didn’t give much thought to how or why a gel self-levels. I took its viscosity and flow properties for granted, focusing only on the end result. But as I’ve gained experience, I've realised that understanding the behavior of gel is like unlocking a superpower in nail application. Knowing how a gel behaves, how it spreads, and how its viscosity works is the key to mastering accurate and safe application.
Believe it or not, this knowledge can make your work so much easier. Instead of battling with the product, you'll learn to let it work for you, creating flawless, smooth nails with less effort. In this blog, we’ll dive deep into why and how a gel self-levels and why this understanding is crucial for every nail tech.
Let's talk about viscosity:
- What it is: Viscosity refers to the thickness or resistance to flow of a liquid. Gels designed for nails have a specific viscosity that allows them to flow slowly and evenly over the nail surface.
- How it works: When applied, the gel's lower viscosity allows it to spread out, filling in ridges or imperfections. This gradual spreading is the self-leveling process.
- Result: The gel’s natural viscosity enables it to move just enough to create an even surface without running uncontrollably off the nail.
One of the biggest pitfalls in applying modern gels is the misconception that more product equals better results. Too often, techs apply too much gel, and the weight of the product causes it to flow into the sidewalls and cuticle area. This leads to a constant battle of trying to control the gel, which many attempt to fix by hanging the nail upside down. While this technique is meant to direct the flow back toward the apex and away from the sidewalls, it can create a new problem: the gel becomes too thick, making it difficult to fully cure.
Understanding how gel flows is key to avoiding these issues. When you truly grasp how the product moves and self-levels, you’ll find yourself naturally applying less, which leads to a smoother, more controlled application. Not only does this reduce the risk of lifting and other complications, but it also ensures a more even and thorough cure. Ultimately, learning to work with the gel’s flow rather than against it will save you time and effort—while delivering better results.
Next let's have a look at one of my favourite words, Thixotropic !! Some thicker viscosity gels have a thixotropic property, although most will loosen a little under heat and/or manipulation ....
- What it is: Thixotropy sounds complicated but it's actually simple — it just means the gel becomes more fluid when you work it, and thickens back up again when you leave it alone. The heat from your client's fingers and the room temperature help with this too.
- How it works: When you brush the gel on and start moving it around, it loosens up and spreads nicely. The moment you stop touching it, it starts to firm back up and hold its position — which is exactly what you want.
- Result: Less is more. The more you fiddle with it, the more fluid it becomes and the harder it is to control. Apply the right amount, let it do its thing, and trust the process!
Here again is another downside to applying gel too thickly: the more you try to control it and push it away from the sidewalls, and create an apex, the more fluid it becomes ! That in turn creates weight works with gravity and makes the gel gel run faster into those sidewalls ! By constantly manipulating the product, you're actually making it work against you. Instead of letting the gel self-level, you end up overworking it, which leads to a more frustrating application process and increases the chances of it flooding into the cuticle or sidewalls.
When the perfect amount of gel is applied, the product will naturally do the work for you. You'll find that there’s no need to over-manipulate or stress about its movement. This will make application smoother and allow you to achieve a clean, professional finish with less effort, and more importantly, less stress for you as a tech!
Next up, Gravity and tension !
- What it is: Gravity naturally pulls the gel downward, helping it to spread evenly across the nail surface. At the same time, surface tension causes the gel to form a smooth, even layer.
- How it works: As the gel spreads due to gravity, surface tension helps it form a uniform layer over the nail. The gel does not form peaks or bumps, it naturally flattens into a smooth surface.
- Result: These forces work together to produce a level, even surface without the need for constant manual adjustment. Allow gravity to take place, chill ! Let it flow (got serious frozen song vibes there....)
We all know that bumps, dips, or uneven surfaces can make gel application tricky. But did you know that even the way your client holds their hand can cause issues? A slight tilt in the wrong direction can make the gel flow exactly where you don't want it to. If the client’s hand isn’t straight, the gel may run into the sidewalls or cuticle area, making control difficult.
This is where understanding the role of gravity becomes essential. By holding the finger downward, you allow the gel to naturally flow away from the cuticle and help the apex form in the right place. If you tilt the finger to the side, the gel will run to the side; and if the finger is even slightly upwards, the gel will gravitate toward the cuticle.
Master these small details, and you can use gravity to your advantage, ensuring the gel flows where it’s needed without the struggle. Do you see what I mean?
Lastly cure !
- What it is: Gel products do not cure (harden) until they are exposed to UV or LED light, which gives them enough time to self-level without panic!.
- How it works: While the gel is still uncured, it remains fluid enough to smooth out on the nail plate. The curing process only begins once the gel is exposed to the lamp, essentially "locking" the gel in its self-leveled state.
- Result: This allows time for the gel to settle into an even layer before it hardens, ensuring a smooth finish.
Here’s a pro tip: Trying to do too many nails at once can lead to uneven self-leveling, product running into cuticles, and lots of stress. Instead, do a few nails at a time and cure them.
While one hand cures, work on the other hand. Don’t try to do all five nails at once because, as we've discussed, the gel will continue to thin and run, ruining your hard work. Trust me, taking your time will lead to a much better result!
In a nutshell:
- Take your time! Let the gel settle for a few seconds before refining and pulling it into place. Let it self level. Gel needs this.
- Work smart: Only move the product where it’s needed. Look at the nail from all angles before adjusting! Don't use too much gel product.
- Minimal movement: Don’t overwork the gel, less touching keeps the product from becoming too fluid and running everywhere.
- Use a liner brush: Small, precise movements can make a big difference, no need for big sweeps.
- Light touch: Be gentle! Think Swan Lake and finesse the gel into place like a graceful ballerina!
Love Mel xx